The brisk morning air shudders me awake as I linger on the ferry deck. It is the middle of January, and the mist condenses on the frosty glass windows of the robust ship. The wind whistles as we sail across the restless waters of the Wadden Sea. Forty-four miles from the mainland harbor. Four years of striving and planning. Finally, I am on the way to Helgoland, accompanied by my bulky photography gear.